MonsterGT FAQ's 

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Got a brand new MGT? Thankfully, the MGT does not have too many issues. If you have maintenance or repair questions, just post them on the Monster GT Forum and they'll be answered.


  1. Ball-ends - they get loose fast, then pop off. Keep spares on hand
  2. Diffs - Do the Quick and Easy Diff Shim
  3. Drive hexes - the wheel nuts loosen up and and drive hexes strip out the wheels. Use two wheel nuts and loctite
  4. Drive pins - they loosen up and fall out. Remove and loctite
  5. Weak steering servo - Get new one and/or do Channel 4 mod, plus THESE MODS
  6. Upper A-arm Hinge mounts - Bend easily, watch out for binding suspension. Get TheDude mounts
  7. Stub Axles - The 6mm stub axles are fairly good, but if you use 23mm adapters and larger wheels, expect breakage.
  8. Wheel bearings - The puny wheel bearings wear quickly, so have spares on hand
  9. CV Joints - these will get loose and sloppy, keep them clean and oiled, then rebuild as necessary


  1. (Q) The engine runs good, so why isn't my truck accelerating correctly? Is my diff or tranny blown?
    (A) CVD pins falling out - These small pins hold the dogbone drive cups and the mainshaft. They need to be removed and you gotta put some loctite on them. Guaranteed, they will fall out if you don't and then your truck won't move. You'll think you have a broken diff or something.

    See the pin circled in red? There are four of them and they will cause you all kinds of grief, as they will most certainly loosen up on you (and fall out), unless you remove and loctite them. There is one on each end of the tranny, and another on each diff. Do all four!!


  2. (Q) The engine runs good, so why isn't my truck accelerating correctly? Is my diff or tranny blown?
    (A) Wheels stripping out
    - Monster GT wheels will loosen up on you. When that happens, the drive hex will instantly spin inside the wheel and strip it out. To stop this problem, simply use two wheel nuts and maybe a little blue loctite too, to be doubly-sure. If a wheel does strip out on you, then get some "gap-filling" CA and glue the hex nut into the wheel. This repair works good and saves buying new wheels.
  3. (Q) How do I set my Monster GT wheel alignments?
    (A) The simplest way to set camber is to use a camber gauge, available at any LHS for a few bucks. Alternatively, use a carpenter's T-square. With truck on level surface, hold T-square against tire and set so that you have a small gap on top (tire leaning in a little, for some negative camber). For setting toe, you can just use edge of a table or a straight-edge piece of wood (or anything). For instance, to set rear toe, put truck on flat surface, point front wheels straight ahead. Hold straight-edge lightly against rear wheel and note where it lines up with front tire. If it lines up perfectly with outside edge of tire, then you would have zero toe. If it lines up about 1/2 inch inside of front tire, then you got about 1 or 2 degrees toe-in, which is good for rear.
  4. (Q) What should I do for routine maintenance?
    (A) A good forum link for routine maintenance: Routine Maintenance
  5. (Q) My steering is not very responsive. What can I do?
    (A) Assuming you are using the stock radio gear, the first thing to do is the famous "Channel 4 mod". From cbr74 at the Monster GT forum: "Unplug the BATTERY from the receiver and stick it in the channel 4 slot. The steering servo plug needs to stay right where it is. What this does is bypass the BEC circuit and puts full power to the servos." If you're still unhappy after you do this mod, you should start thinking about upgrading to a better steering servo. There are lots of good ones, but one of the best (and my favorite) is the 94358 Airtronics, with 200oz of torque and 60 degrees of rotation in .10 seconds. Besides the steering servo, another good upgrade right away is a rechargeable NiMH battery pack. Get one with at least 1100 MaH.









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Last  update on: 4/19/12.