MonsterGT 2-Servo Steering 

E-mail us: Chevy-SS , webmaster
TheDude, TD Racing
Over 200,000 visits since May '05!!!!

 

Home
Engine Break-In
Tranny & Diffs
FOC/Tranny
Off-Road Tuning
Race Setup Tips
Clutch & Slipper
TD Racing Mounts
Beefy Knuckles
MGT-RPM Knuck Mod
MAXIMUM Steering
4-Wheel Steering
2-Servo Steering
Pit Tips
FAQ's
Stalling
Custom Drag Link
Need for Speed

Contact Chevy-SS for more details or questions on this particular project.

This idea and mod came from Canadian-MGT on the Monster GT forum. You will love this mod, if you decide to do it. I did it on mine and am using two Airtronics 94358 servos, for a combined total of 400oz of torque. Thanks for this mod, Canadian-MGT! http://www.atomic-racing.50megs.com/page5.html , there's a link to a page created by Canadian-MGT, where he explains the mod in more detail than you will find on this page. I suggest you read through both pages (his and mine) before starting on this project.

This is a great mod and it adds a little weight to the front end, which REALLY helps with steering in tight-corner, on-power situations (aka: "pushing").

This mod almost becomes self-explanatory by looking at the pics below, so I have opted to not include any real instructions here (details are on Canadian-MGT's page). Just be careful when you cut things up with your Dremel tool. There are a number of different ways you can do this.

First thing is to cut the side guard plate. Cut a hole on the opposite side of the existing steering servo. Don't cut it quite full size at the beginning. Leave yourself a little room for error. Here's a pic of my side guard finished:

You are gonna use two bellcranks here, so you will need to get another one.

Your next task is to mount the second steering servo into the battery compartment (you'll have to ditch the hump pack and get a flat pack). This is perhaps the trickiest part of the project. Just take your time and try to make sure that the second servo ends up equi-distant from the bellcrank as the factory servo. Be careful cutting up the battery box. It's a close fit, but it will work. After you get it fitted, drill four small holes for the servo mounting screws. Here's a pic of my electronics box removed:


 

Here's a pic of mine finished, with 400oz of torque. Yeah, baby!

 

You can see how I have made one of the arms from servo to bellcrank adjustable. Also, I mounted the second servo directly into the battery compartment. This way, I can still remove the electronics as one complete unit, which makes it SOOOOO much easier to clean after racing.

It takes me no more than one minute to remove the electronics and I can then de-grease and hose off the truck to my content. This feature (easily removing the electronics) is fabulous and saves a lot of down time. Kudos to Associated.

You can use a simple "Y" connector to tie the two servos together. Your LHS will have the connector, or get one from Tower. Or you can always just make your own.

I use a 1400MaH flat pack battery and mount it under the pipe. You can just see the tip of the battery in the pic above.



 

 

Home | Engine Break-In | Tranny & Diffs | FOC/Tranny | Off-Road Tuning | Race Setup Tips | Clutch & Slipper | TD Racing Mounts | Beefy Knuckles | MGT-RPM Knuck Mod | MAXIMUM Steering | 4-Wheel Steering | 2-Servo Steering | Pit Tips | FAQ's | Stalling | Custom Drag Link | Need for Speed
For comments or questions regarding this web, email: Chevy-SS .
Last  update on: 4/19/12.